Self-guided Tours

Walking Tour: Thessaloniki // Start: Ano Poli // End: Port // Length: 8km // Duration: 4 hours

Start around 9am, as many churches close by noon. Avoid Mondays, when most sites are closed. If you’re starting in central Thessaloniki, skip Ano Poli and pick up the route from Yeni Hammam.

Begin at Ano Poli’s tower by the easternmost end of the Byzantine Walls. Follow the walls west on the main road Eptapirgiou; turn left onto Akropoleos (becoming narrow walkway Agathaggelou) to find the church and museum at the Monastery of Vlatadon. This 14th-century edifice has well-preserved frescoes and a calm, leafy setting.

Double back to Eptapirgiou and continue west, following more ragged Byzantine walls. Turn left and follow the stairs on Sthenonos along pastel-painted walls and houses with blooming window boxes. At the bottom of the stairs, veer right along Dimitriou Poliorkitou. Look out for the easy-to-miss stairway that doubles backwards; follow it down to Unesco-listed Church of Osios David – a sign for the church marks the stairway. This 5th-century gem is resplendent with rare frescoes.

From here, wander labyrinthine Ano Poli eastwards along the small streets. The most direct route follows Fotiou across Akropoleos, turning left onto Krispou. These residential streets are a soothing palette of coral and pink. The road wiggles into Eolou, and then hits Moreas. Follow Moreas to the left, then find 14th-century Church of Nikolaos Orfanos by turning right onto Amfitryonos. Burnished angels blaze from the walls of this intimate Byzantine church.

Returning to Moreas, go southwest to leave behind Ano Poli’s steep streets. Once you cross Olymbiados and reach Kassandrou, you’re well and truly back in the big city.

Dodge the pedestrian bustle for a few blocks west along Kassandrou and turn south on Agiou Nikolaou. You’ll see the bulging red-domed roof of Yeni Hammam, a restored 17th-century Turkish bath, in front of you. A few steps south of Yeni Hammam is the burly brick Church of Agios Dimitrios, occupying its own square and sheltering relics of St Dimitrios within.

Venture south on Agnostou Stratiotou across Olympou and you’ll see the ruin of the Roman Agora, with a backdrop of modern tower blocks. After marvelling at the contrast of ancient and new, double-back to Agiou Dimitriou and proceed east 10 blocks to Atatürk House on your left, inside the Turkish consulate. This high-security attraction resembles a fortress more than a museum.

A block further east on Agiou Dimitriou, hike right on Dimitriou Gounari; at the end you’ll find the imposing and newly renovated Rotunda of Galerius. This squat, rounded building has a variegated history as a mauseoleum, temple, church and mosque. Amble downhill along the path towards the statue-studded 3rd-century Arch of Galerius, created to commemorate Galerius’ victory over the Persian army. After crossing busy Egnatia, meander down the pedestrianised street until you see excavated walls. The ruins may look scant, but they are remnants of the once-vast Palace of Galerius.

Continue following gravity’s pull downhill. Cross Tsimiski and, at Plateia Fanarioton, arc left to see the iconic White Tower. Thessaloniki’s waterfront icon was once a notorious prison, but now harbours a multimedia museum. Next wander west for a waterside stroll on Leoforos Nikis. Some of the city’s most effervescent nightlife is along this road.

Leave the water by turning right up Agias Sofias towards the impressive Church of Agia Sofia. If your energy is low after craning your neck at its mosaic-decorated inner dome, pause for a quick sugar rush at Blé before returning to Tsimiski to proceed west.

Soon you’ll hit Aristotelous; Plateia Aristotelous is to the left. Follow your rumbling belly to the right; between Irakliou and Ermou you’ll discover Modiano Market, full of fish on ice and trays of olives and cheese.

Nibble your way through Modiano before rejoining Ermou. You’ll cross busy main drag Venizelou. Next turn towards the sea once more by pacing down Ionos Dragoumi, through the former florists’ market, the Louloudadika district, now overflowing with clothes shops, bars and restaurants. If your feet are sore, end here with a visit to the excellent Jewish Museum; or quench your thirst by returning to Leoforos Nikis’ waterfront bars.

Further down Ionos Dragoumi, at the Tsimiski intersection, note the splendid National Bank of Greece building; after it, turn right onto Mitropoleos and zigzag your way into the Ladadika district, once comprising olive-oil warehouses and now home to atmospheric restaurants and bars. Complete the tour with a well-deserved late lunch at one of Ladadika’s eateries. Otherwise, finish with sea views by walking south to Kountouriotou towards the beautified port.